The Wave: Coyote Buttes North

Introduction Of The Wave

Tucked within the remote reaches of the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, straddling the Utah-Arizona border, lies one of the most jaw-dropping natural wonders in the American Southwest: The Wave. This surreal, undulating sandstone formation is located in Coyote Buttes North, and it’s a destination that rewards the lucky, the prepared, and the persistent.

The (Extremely Exclusive) Permit Process

Getting a permit to hike The Wave isn’t just challenging—it’s infamously difficult. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) issues only a handful of daily permits to protect the fragile landscape. You either enter the online lottery four months in advance or try your luck in the daily walk-in lottery in Kanab, Utah. Most people wait years for their turn.

I applied for the first time in spring 2023, expecting a long wait like everyone else. To my surprise, I received an email just two weeks later—we’d scored a permit for August 24. Total shock. Maybe applying for a date in the middle of August, when temperatures can soar past 100°F, helped our chances. Either way, we were in.

Choosing a Base: Kanab or Page?

You can start your Wave adventure from either Kanab, Utah or Page, Arizona. Both are good options, but we chose Kanab, mainly because we booked a guide through the Kanab Tour Company—a move we didn’t regret. For $575 (before tip), we had a private full-day tour, and the peace of mind that came with it was well worth the price.

Will the Hike Even Happen?

Right before our scheduled hike, remnants of Hurricane Hilary had swept through the Southwest. The dirt road to the trailhead is notoriously vulnerable to rain—it can turn into a riverbed with just a little moisture. If it’s impassable, your hike is canceled. No reschedules. You’re back to square one.

We were biting our nails until the morning of the hike, but our guide Nick reassured us it was a go. He picked us up at 6:00 a.m. (a late start by Wave standards, but the weather was mild), and we were on our way.

The Road to Wire Pass

The journey to the Wire Pass Trailhead took about an hour from Kanab. This drive alone was enough to make us grateful we’d hired a guide. While our Jeep might’ve made it, Nick’s high-clearance vehicle cruised through the rugged terrain like it was nothing.

At 7:00 a.m., with BLM permits strapped to our backpacks, we hit the trail.

Finding The Wave (No Trail, No Problem)

There’s no marked trail to The Wave. Instead, hikers use visual landmarks, compass bearings, and a BLM-provided map to navigate the 3.5-mile route across open desert. Getting lost is very possible—especially in scorching heat. Fortunately, our guide knew the route like the back of his hand.

The temps stayed in the 80s—hot but not deadly—and the scenery was out of this world. Think Mars meets a Dali painting.

First Glimpse of The Wave

Roughly three miles in, the famed Wave came into view. Its iconic petrified sandstone ridges swirled in vibrant shades of red, orange, and yellow, shifting hues as the sun moved overhead. No photo does it justice. Standing there in person, with nothing but silence and stone around you, it’s impossible not to feel humbled.

We had about 45 minutes to explore, snack, and soak it in while Nick chatted with fellow guides. And just when we thought the day had peaked—it got even better.

Bonus Trek: Top Rock, The Alcove, and Second Wave

Nick could tell we had more in the tank, so he took us beyond The Wave to some of the area’s lesser-known gems.

• Top Rock: A challenging scramble about 200 feet above The Wave. The views were worth every step. We even posed under the natural Melody Arch, which frames the desert landscape like a painting.
• The Alcove: A towering sandstone chamber filled with soft sand and glowing textures carved by wind over millennia. This spot felt like a secret cathedral sculpted by nature.
• Second Wave: Another banded sandstone formation, smaller but just as striking. Nick called the rock here “bacon rock”—you’ll know why when you see it.

On the descent, Emilie dropped her water bottle down a slick slope. We figured it was gone for good. Nope—Nick scrambled after it, returning with it in hand like some desert superhero. Leave no trace, indeed.

A Final Surprise: Dinosaur Tracks

Just when we thought the surprises were over, Nick led us past a field of fossilized dinosaur footprints, stamped into the sandstone long before humans ever set foot here. Talk about walking through history.

Back to Civilization

By 2:00 p.m., we made it back to the trailhead, dusty, sweaty, and grinning ear to ear. Nick drove us back to Kanab, and by 3:00 p.m., we were back at our hotel.

We ended the day with an excellent dinner at Wild Thyme Cafe (Nick’s recommendation). A little upscale for a post-hike meal, but after a day like that, we felt we’d earned it.

Final Thoughts

The Wave lives up to the hype—and then some. Between the exclusivity of the permit, the challenge of the hike, and the alien beauty of the landscape, it’s one of those rare adventures that truly feels once-in-a-lifetime.

Would we do it again? Absolutely. But with those odds? Probably not anytime soon. If you’re lucky enough to snag a permit, go prepared, go early, and if you can, hire a guide. You’ll see more, stress less, and walk away with unforgettable memories.

Next stop: the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. But The Wave? That one will be hard to top.

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